The 2006 La Tâche Grand Cru is a vintage that I had not tasted since it was in barrel. But what a gorgeous wine it has turned out. The bouquet is so seductive, a heady mixture of red and blue fruit, pressed violets and citrus fruit that soar from the glass with amazing precision. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannin, velvety smooth in texture with layers of red fruit laced with black cherries, Earl Grey and even a hint of liquorice. Monitoring the wine over several minutes it seems to gain depth and persistence. Beautiful. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall.

The 2006 La Tâche is the most layered and pliant of these four 2006s. I especially admire the wine’s inner sweetness and perfume, both qualities that carry through to the creamy, expressive finish. This is a terrific showing from the 2006.

While young La Tâche has the reputation of always being highly expressive aromatically, even explosive, there are some vintages where this tendency is more muted and 2006 is one of these. The positively gorgeous if presently reserved nose offers up the hallmark spice and floral components that are broad and deep though requiring some real glasswork to coax out but it's worth the effort as the nose here, restrained or not, is brilliant. The big and generous flavors are an exercise in contrasts as they are at once round and rich while remaining wonderfully defined and precise with more minerality coming to the fore than any of the prior wines displayed, all wrapped in a linear, precise and palate staining finish that not withstanding the initial aromatic reserve, is indeed explosive. This is already harmonious and the transparency and purity of expression are something to see. While I do not argue that the '06 La Tâche rivals vintages like '99 or '05, there is something special about this one that causes me to already be in love with it. In a word, magnificent and now that it is in bottle, my original description needs no modification except perhaps to observe that this is a Zen-like vintage for La Tâche as it is very calm and deliberate in demeanor.

Deep red. Lovely high-pitched aromas and flavors of raspberry, minerals, flowers and spices; this could go into a time capsule. Then juicy, pure and almost magically light on its feet, with terrific verve and spicy lift. With air, a note of smoky underbrush emerged, but in comparison to this sappy wine the 2005 is distinctly more sauvage Finishes with sweet but firm tannins and outstanding purity and persistence.

Domaine de La Romanee-Conti's 2006 La Tache possesses a sense of sheer density and a viscosity – by no means precluding energy – that go beyond the other wines in the Domaine's current collection. Scents of bitter-sweet floral perfume, citrus oils, white pepper, peat, and black fruit distillates pungently, almost aggressively fill the nose. The marrow and beef gelatin aspect of this Pinot is salient, but is allied on a palpably tannic palate with similarly impressive concentrated cooked black fruits, dark mushroom stock, forest floor, smoky Lapsang tea, and licorice. For grip and power, too, this surpasses its stable mates. But a glance back at the Romanee-St.-Vivant suggests that you can't have it all, and that this La Tache cannot approach that wine's finesse or quite equal its mystery. Still, I suspect this will be worth following for at least two decades. The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

First impression is richness and depth but twinned with absolute elegance, so that it seems almost crass to try to identfy specific flavours, though there are aromas of pure red fruit and delicate spice. On the palate, too, tremendous richness and generosity even though you know it has so much more to give. Tight, fine tannic/acid stucture that you can clearly feel and see but that is perfectly in place. Like the Échezeaux, a tingly taste on your tongue long after the wine has gone. Lingering and mouthfilling without loss of elegance and purity. 13% (JH)