The 2018 La Haute Lemblé is powerful, deep and resonant, maybe a bit more so than normal. The interplay of richness and explosive vertical energy is breathtaking. Time in the glass brings out captivating scents of white flowers, lemon confit, mint and orchard fruit, with expressive tropical accents that add complexity. The 2018 is very, very closed today, but it does appear to be quite rich and likely to age into an exotic Champagne very much marked but the ripeness of the vintage. It's another showstopper from Cédric Bouchard. Disgorged: 2022.

A particular success this year is the 2018 Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé. It unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp white peach and green mango mingled with notions of verbena and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, broad and vinous, it's taut, concentrated and precise, with a beautifully fine-boned but rich profile that Bouchard is one of very few producers to have achieved this year.