When Gilles de Larouzière took the reins chez Henriot and tasted the vins clairs of the 2016 vintage with his team, one cuvée from Avize stood out from the crowd enough that it seemed to merit a tirage of its own. The result is the 2016 Brut L'inattendue, disgorged after four years on the lees with four grams per liter dosage. It's a demonstrative, expressive Champagne, bursting with aromas of white peach, crisp orchard fruit and confit lemon mingled with subtle hints of buttery pastry, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and attractively vinous palate, its fleshy core of fruit complemented by a pretty pinpoint mousse. Already drinking well, it's testimony to the exciting things happening at this historic house.

Dosage 4 g/l. Very creamy, super-fine bead. Light green-apple character finishing with biscuit and apple blossom. Dry but not austere with enough ripe fruit and lemon sherbet to provide moderate persistence. Not the most demonstrative style but it is balanced and drinkable. (RH)