Pale colour with very fine mousse. Lovely light, elegant nose. Incredibly restrained but showing the tell-tale Pol trademark – citrus, mineral and the secondary autolytic character is already here. Often one of the ONLY vintage champagnes that is approachable on release. Rich but refined – a classic 2004. Very classy. Long finish. Great now but will evolve effortlessly for well over a decade.

Specially labelled before release for the wedding of Sonya and Paulo Pong on 11 March 2012 and served before a range of ancient red bordeaux provided by Pong. As he commented afterward, 'we tasted the Pol Roger again 13 years and 5 kids after!' Deep gold with a hint of green. Tiny bead. Really savoury, appetising and convincing. The finish was dry but not drying out. Really impressive and vindication of my admiration of the 2004 vintage in Champagne. (JR)

60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, sourced from 20 Grand & Premier Crus from the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. The must underwent two débourbages (settlings), one at the press house and the second, a cold-settling, in stainless steel tanks at 6 °C over a 24 hour period. Slowly cool-fermented at less than 18°C, with each variety and each village kept separate until final blending. Full malo and then 2ndary ferment took place at 9 °C in the deepest Pol Roger cellars (33 metres below street level) where the wine was kept until being riddled by hand. Winemaker Dominique Petit. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Really rich and doughy on the nose, bits of smoke and lemon juice. Great – but not quite as multi-dimensional as I expect from Pol Roger. The nose outplays the palate at the moment. (RH)