The 2020 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is superb. Tingly, lemony acidity and flamboyant yellow fruit wrap around the acid. Silky, velvety texture defines the Chardonnays at this estate, and if you want to get a sense of that, this is an eloquent place to start. There's preserved lemon, white peach, some pastry and white spice and lashings of toasted nuts. Great wine here with a long future. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Possibly the most complete Hunting Hill Chardonnay I've tasted in youth, the 2020 provides a harmonious, melt-in-your-mouth impression. It has breadth and concentration but retains a sense of elegance on the midpalate before finishing with precision and length. Yes, there's a little bit of flint character too, but then Hunting Hill is known to be reductive; give it time. Like Forrest Gump, it runs through a finish line and keeps on going effortlessly. There's no box of chocolates here, though; it's all white nectarine, citrus, white flowers and a touch of smoked nuts.

Definitely more restrained on the nose than the Coddington. Then on the palate it’s more savoury and more burgundian, with admirable precision. Still quite youthful. Very finely etched. Lemon flavours. A bit more depth than the Coddington. Long. (JR)