(88% tempranillo and 12% graciano) Opaque purple. C aptivating nose melds black raspberry, minerals, mocha, mint and dried flowers. Lush, fat and sweet, but its opulent red berry, cherry and dark chocolate flavors are enlivened by strong minerality. As deeply concentrated and palate-staining as this wine is, it shows unlikely elegance. In fact, this reminds me a little of a modern Bordeaux The finish is sweet, smoky and very long.

The 2007 Vino del Olivo (named after an 800-year-old olive tree) is a blend of 88% Tempranillo and 12% Graciano. It has a hedonistic, flamboyant bouquet of macerated red cherries and crushed strawberry, with hints of marmalade and fresh fig underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with a very polished, oaky entry. There are plush red fruits with cassis and blueberry cut through with crisp acidity leading to a tensile, velvety-smooth finish. It is a decadent, but composed Rioja. Drink 2013-2022. CVNE was founded by the Real de Asua brothers in 1879 and has remained family-owned since that time. The historic bodega is located in Haro, and there are three companies under the umbrella: CVNE, Contino and Vina Real. These wines were tasted on two occasions in London, revisiting recent vintages plus older ones to compare. The Vino del Olivo is fermented in large oak vats and undergoes malolactic in new French barrels, where it is matured for 17 months. The Graciano is limited to around 6,000 bottles per vintage and is aged for 15 months in new oak (90% French and 10% Hungarian) and then 12 months in bottle. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com