A relatively new vineyard label for Aubert (the third vintage to be produced), the 2019 Chardonnay Powder House comes from eight acres of what are now estate-owned vines planted in 2013 to Hyde Old Wente and Mt. Eden clones on Goldridge soils. It prances out of the glass with showy scents of fresh nectarines, pink grapefruit, lime leaves and preserved lemons plus hints of struck flint and wet pebbles. The full-bodied palate possesses an almost electric intensity with bags of nervy citrusy flavors and a very lively backbone, finishing with great length and oodles of minerals. This should age fantastically!

The 2019 Chardonnay Powder House, from a site in Forestville, is one of the most lifted, gracious wines in the range. White flowers, mint, orchard fruit and white pepper give the Powder House its distinctly brilliant aromatics. It is an especially translucent, taut Chardonnay within this hugely impressive range.