The 1961 Latour-à-Pomerol has an astonishing, quite decadent nose with black plum, cassis and faint smear of honey, all beautifully defined and certainly more precocious than the 1961 Petrus tasted the previous year. That said, I notice how the aromatics dispense with some of its vigor in the glass, becoming more graceful and less hedonistic after 45 minutes. The palate still retains its sweet core of black fruit laced with glycerin that implies late harvesting. Like the nose, it becomes more refined with aeration, showing no signs of any oxidation. Does it live up to its 100-point reputation? Maybe not on this occasion, although that takes nothing away from one exquisite mature Pomerol.

Although the 1947 Cheval Blanc is widely considered to be the "wine of the century" among collectors, the 1961 Latour a Pomerol also merits a share of the title. Giving points to a wine such as this makes one think of Shakespeare's reflection that "comparisons are odious." To put it mildly, this wine is "off the charts." If I had only one Bordeaux to drink, the 1961 Latour a Pomerol would have to be at the top of my list. Given its phenomenal richness and amazing precision and balance, it can bring tears to one's eyes. Still a saturated dark purple color with no signs of amber, orange, or rust, the nose offers extraordinarily rich, intense aromas of jammy plums, black currants, licorice, and truffles. Port-like, with remarkable viscosity and thickness, as well as a finish that lasts for more than a minute, this wine is in a class by itself. Even greater than the 1961 Petrus and 1961 Latour (two perfect wines), it is phenomenal. Given its youthfulness (it is the least evolved wine of the vintage), it has the potential to last for another 20-30 years. Last tasted 12/96