From cold cellars, the 1979 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande continues to drink beautifully, and this example was one of the best I've enjoyed in recent years, offering up rich aromas of dark berries, cigar box and burning embers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy, sensual and complete palate. Not all bottles perform at this level, of course, but this wine is never less than outstanding.

- The really good 1979 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is an excellent effort from this tough vintage. On the nose this has black truffle shavings and salty soils alongside shades of dried herbs and faint dark currant tones. The palate is refined and elegant with faint tannins that frame a core of wild mushroom, damp earth and shades of wild blackberry. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next few years.

Undoubtedly a top success for the vintage, Pichon-Lalande's 1979 exhibits a dark garnet color with some amber at the edge. It offers a fragrant, cedary, roasted herb, and cassis-scented nose. Rich, with medium body, well-integrated tannin, and some acidity, this is the quintessentially elegant style of Bordeaux that is found nowhere else in the world. Anticipated maturity: Now-2004. Last tasted 6/97

The 1979 Pichon-Lalande was born in an era when Michel Delon of Léoville Las-Cases assisted at the property and lent his magic touch. It has a lovely, leafy and autumnal bouquet plus touches of meat juices. Like the 1976, it seems founded on the Merlot rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smooth texture, a gentle spiciness evolving with aeration and just missing a little length. I would not leave this too much longer, and it will not improve, but well-kept bottles should still give pleasure. Tasted at the Pichon-Lalande vertical in London.