The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, spices, menthol and new leather are woven together beautifully in the glass. Savory herbs and licorice notes appear later as the wine opens up in the glass. There is a beautiful weight to the 2010, but no sense of heaviness whatsoever. The firm 2010 tannins are present yet unobtrusive. With time in the glass, the aromas and flavors brighten up in a wine that is pure class. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. It’s always great to spend some time with Diego and Nora Molinari. The Molinaris may have slowed down a bit in recent years, but these wines prove they own one of Montalcino’s uncontestable grand cru sites. My visit this year ended with the 1989 Brunello di Montalcino. Nora Molinari told me this was the worst Brunello she and Diego had ever made. At one point, the Molinaris stopped selling the 1989 because they were embarrassed by the quality of the wine. Well, after 24 years, I can say the 1989 Brunello is gorgeous. No, it isn’t a great wine by this estate’s standards, but it has aged with superb grace. Suffice it to say, most producers would have been thrilled to have made a wine of this quality. Simply put, this is a great showing from Cerbaiona, one of Montalcino’s timeless classics. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484