Explosive fruit on the nose with dark cherries and plums, but there are also lots of fresh fragrances here, including spearmint, eucalyptus, forest floor and boysenberries. The palate is very pure and focused, the driven acidity providing a welcome counterpoint to the layers of rich, dark fruit. A blend of 85 per cent sangioveto and 15 per cent malvasia nera. Drink from 2022.

The 2015 I Sodi di S. Niccolò is another beautiful new release from Castellare di Castellina. This is a seamlessly executed expression of Sangioveto (an antique name for Sangiovese) with a smaller part Malvasia Nera from a sunny vintage that produced generous and exuberant fruit across the board. White pepper, spice, wild rose and toasted anise seed appear on the close. The finish is soft and yielding with sweet tannins. Present this gorgeous red alongside a roasted pheasant. Some 29,000 bottles were produced.